The Stage of Athens


When I visited Athens, I initially went to Syntagma Square on a weekday, hoping to catch the famous changing of the guard ceremony. However, my timing coincided with a protest, and the square was crowded with demonstrators. The bustling atmosphere was energizing, but it wasn’t the right moment for the serene and ceremonial event I had hoped to witness. So, I decided to return on another day.

I had heard about the elaborate Sunday ceremony and really wished I could experience it. Unfortunately, that was the same morning as my flight back to the USA, so I missed it. Nonetheless, on my return visit, I did get to see the hourly change, which was still impressive. The guards, known as Evzones, were a striking sight in their traditional uniforms. It’s clear they take their duty seriously; they stand perfectly still and expressionless, maintaining their poise regardless of the onlookers’ snapping photos.

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Syntagma Square, also known as Constitution Square, is a central hub in Athens, Greece, bustling with activity and rich in history. It’s located in front of the 19th-century Old Royal Palace, which houses the Greek Parliament. Historically, Syntagma Square has been a focal point for political and social events in Greece. It has witnessed numerous demonstrations, celebrations, and significant political gatherings. The name ‘Syntagma’ itself translates to ‘Constitution,’ commemorating the uprising on September 3, 1843, which led to the granting of the constitution by King Otto.

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The Evzones, dressed in their traditional uniforms with the iconic foustanella and tsarouchia, performed with an air of solemn dignity. It’s important to remember that these guards are not just for show; they are highly disciplined soldiers, and it’s crucial to respect their space and duties. Observing the ceremony, I was careful to maintain a respectful distance and refrained from talking to the guards or disturbing them in any way, following the unspoken rules of engagement here.

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One of the most iconic features of Syntagma Square is the changing of the guard ceremony at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, located in front of the Parliament building. This event happens every hour and is a significant attraction, drawing tourists to witness the precision and solemnity of the traditionally dressed Evzones guards.

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Every Sunday at 11:00 AM, a more elaborate and ceremonial version of the changing of the guard takes place. This event typically attracts more spectators, including both locals and tourists, as it involves more guards and includes a military band. The soldiers perform more complex routines and movements, making it a grand spectacle that highlights the precision and discipline of the Evzones. If you’re planning a visit, arriving early can help secure a good viewing spot, as this is a popular event among visitors to Athens.
Although I didn’t get to see the grand Sunday event, watching the Evzones in their disciplined routine was a memorable part of my Athens visit. It reminded me a bit of what I’ve heard about the guard ceremonies at the palaces in the UK, where the guards are also known for their strict protocols and stoic demeanor. Hopefully, I’ll get a chance to witness both someday!

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